Navigating the world of gold jewellery can be confusing with so many terms and options. 

Here's your comprehensive guide to understanding the key differences and deciding factors with gold plated, gold filled, gold vermeil, rose gold, white gold and solid karat gold (yellow gold) jewellery.

Gold Plated Jewellery

Gold plated jewellery is the most affordable option. The process involves coating a base metal, usually a low value metal like brass or nickel, with a thin layer of gold. Gold plating allows you to enjoy the look of gold at a fraction of the price. The karats of the gold used in plating can vary, affecting the shade of gold. Higher karats will have a more intense yellow colour.

However, the gold layer in gold plated jewellery is extremely thin and prone to wearing away over time. This can lead to the base metal being exposed, and potential skin reactions if the base metal contains nickel or other allergenic metals.

Gold Vermeil Jewellery

Gold vermeil is a form of gold plated jewellery, created with a more robust gold plating process than traditional gold plating. In addition, the gold plating is much thicker than traditional gold plated jewellery (around 2.5 microns thick), and the base metal is sterling silver. 

Although more expensive than traditionally gold plated items, gold vermeil is a good compromise as it offers more quality and durability than traditional gold plating, and can include yellow gold or rose gold as its coating. Gold vermeil pieces are also easier to look after, as the thicker gold coating and more durable base metal, silver, offer more resistance to tarnishing and wear.

Gold Filled Jewellery

Gold filled jewellery is a great middle ground between gold plated and solid gold. It involves a mechanical process that heat-bonds a layer of gold to a base metal, usually brass. Gold filled pieces are typically 14K or 18K, and the layer of gold is significantly thicker than that of gold plated items.

Gold filled jewellery is more durable and resistant to tarnish, making it a better choice for those who want longevity from their pieces. It's perfect if you want the look and feel of solid gold, without the high price tag.

A Note About Karats

The term karat indicates the percentage of gold in the alloy, hence we might refer to a 14K gold necklace or an 18K gold ring. In some countries, the spelling carat is used instead of karat when discussing gold.

The higher the karat, the higher the percentage of gold in the mix of metals (yes, gold jewellery made with real gold/yellow gold always has other metals mixed with the gold, to make it more durable!). The gold content is out of 24 parts, hence 9K is 9/24 or 37.5% gold. 

Some of the most commonly used karat amounts you may see mentioned with gold jewellery are: 9K (37.5% gold as stated above, appearing as a light yellow colour), 14K (58.3% gold, resulting in a medium yellow colour), 18K gold (75% gold, which appears as a rich, vibrant yellow), and 22K (91.6% gold, which has a bright, very yellow or gold colour). 

100% gold is 24K, but this is usually used for other applications, like industrial processes, rather than for jewellery, as real gold on its own is too soft a metal!

Solid Karat Gold / Yellow Gold Jewellery

Solid karat gold, or yellow gold, is the cream of the crop in the world of gold jewellery. Note that although it may sometimes be referred to as ‘solid gold’, gold jewellery is very rarely 100% gold, as noted above. ‘Solid gold’ simply means that solid yellow gold is used in the metal alloys which are created for jewellery production.  

Gold jewellery pieces made with a proportion of solid karat yellow gold are the most resistant to wear and tarnish, and they're hypoallergenic, making them perfect for people with sensitive skin. However, they come at a higher cost than gold plated, gold vermeil and gold filled items. Nevertheless you have a choice as to how much gold you prefer and thus there is a range of prices within the upper price bracket for solid karat gold items.

Rose Gold Jewellery

Rose gold is simply karat gold mixed with copper, which gives this gold alloy a beautiful, rosy pink hue. Rose gold items will be labelled with their gold karat concentration to indicate the percentage of gold included, for example, 9K rose gold or 14K rose gold.

White Gold Jewellery

White gold is also an alloy, and is usually solid karat gold mixed with one or more durable and sometimes expensive white or silver-coloured metals, such as palladium, platinum or silver. This gives white gold its silvery shine, depending on how much gold is included. 9K white gold will look slightly more silvery and less yellow, while 18K white gold will have a definite yellowish tinge to it. White gold is usually also coated with rhodium, to help add a whitish sheen and durability.

What are the Trade-offs?

Every type of gold jewellery comes with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. Gold plated pieces are the most budget-friendly but less durable, with gold vermeil (gold plated silver) being the most durable when considering gold plated items. Gold filled pieces offer a balance of quality and affordability, and are often more durable than gold plated items. 

Yellow gold jewellery (consisting of alloys made with solid karat gold) comes in a range of colours and gold amounts, including rose gold and white gold, and will provide the best quality and longevity, but has a higher price tag because of the proportions and thicknesses of karat gold included.

The best choice for you ultimately depends on your lifestyle, budget, and personal taste. Knowing the differences among these options can help you make an informed decision and find a piece that you'll truly love and enjoy wearing for years to come.